TEXTILE SPECIFICATIONS
Instructor: Han-Ah Yoo
Office Hrs: by appointment
Course
This course introduces students to chemical and physical properties of textile polymers/fibers, dyes and finishes. Qualitative fiber analysis, principles of mechanical/chemical finishes and different dyeing techniques will be covered. Structure and properties of yarns and fabrics will be discussed.
Textbooks:
1) Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 7.01 and 7.02, 2018
2) Technical Manual of the AATCC, 2018
3) J.J. Pizzuto’s Fabric Science, 11th Ed, Fairchild Publications, New York, 2016
4) J.J. Pizzuto’s Fabric Swatch Set, 11th Ed, Fairchild Publications, New York, 2016 available in University Bookstore (please make sure that you get this version of Fabric Swatch set)
Purpose:
To develop the knowledge and expertise for writing more environmentally sustainable specifications for both designing and purchasing of textiles used for apparel and interior treatments.
To develop an appreciation for maximizing profit by writing effective specifications to reduce waste in purchasing (Reduction in purchasing materials which have over or lower qualities than is needed).
To develop the knowledge and expertise for problem solving for textile products and calculating adjustment values for consumer textiles.
To develop the knowledge and expertise for analyzing and evaluating physical properties of textiles used for interiors and apparel through textile testing methods.
To expand the understanding of factors which affect the comfort of textile products.
To understand chemical structure-property relationships in textile science.
To be able to recognize and know the functions of different complex and texturized yarns.
To be able to distinguish among various types of fabric structures.
To understand fundamental principles of coloring, finishing, and care of textiles and their relation to chemical structure dyes and fibers.
Students must inform the instructor of need for accommodation of any special needs (recognized disabilities, absences for athletic meets, etc.) by the end of the second week of class. Students must also inform the instructor in advance of days they will be absent for religious holidays. Instructors will try to make reasonable accommodations in accordance with university policies.
Evaluation:
Make-up exams will only be given to those students who have approval of the professor prior to the exam. If you are sick, call me/your TA or leave a message and I will call you back.
First Examination (30%)
Second Examination (30%)
Final Examination (30%)
Class Participation (10%)
There is a penalty of -1 point for each missing class after the first one.
Class Participation:
Read the assigned book chapters before each lecture; the chapters help you to understand the lecture much better. In addition, many times during the lecture I pose a few questions and ask for volunteers to answer the questions (0.5-1 point will be given for each correct answer). Reading the book will help you to get these extra points. You must claim your point/s after each lecture.
University provides some help for students who face physical or any other challenges. Please don’t hesitate to ask for help.
Classroom Climate and Incidents of Hate/Bias
My intention is to be inclusive and welcoming so that all students feel comfortable in the classroom while also being challenged to learn and grow. If a class topic or discussion makes you feel unwelcome or unsafe please talk to me about your concerns.
COURSE OUTLINE
I. Introduction Reading Assignment
- Key Terms Related to Production and Consumption of Textiles
II. Overview of Textile Structures and Their Properties Fabric Science, 11th
-Classification of Fiber (Chapter1&2)
- Natural Fiber and Man-made Fiber
- Mechanical Property of Fiber
- Structure and Morphology
-Yarn
-Fabric
-Carpet
III. Comfort Aspects of Clothing and Textiles
-Physiological
-Thermal
-Moisture
-Fabric Properties
-Comfort
Cellulose and Modified Cellulose Fibers (Chapter 3)
- Chemistry and Structure
-Natural Cellulose Fibers
-Cotton
-Flax, jute, ramie, hemp
Protein Fiber (Chapter3)
-Chemistry and Structure
-Natural Protein Fibers
-Wool
-Silk
V. Synthetic Fiber (Chapter 3)
-Spinning Process for Synthetic Fiber
-Cellulosic Fiber
-Rayon
- Acetate, Triacetate, Lyocell
Manufactured Non-cellulosic Fiber
-Spandex
-Elastomeric and Other fibers
VI. Yarns: Construction and Performance (Chapter 4)
-Yarn Properties
-Carded
-Combed
-Woolen
-Worsted
-Manufacture of spun yarn
-Ring spinning
-Open end spinning
-Self-twist
-Fasciated
-Properties and End-use
-Complex yarns
-Simple
-Slub
-Spiral
-Nub
-Loop
-Core
-Core spun
-Chenille
-Laminated
VI. Yarns: Construction and Performance
-Yarn size
-Cotton system
-Worsted system
-Denier
-Tex
-Filament yarns
-Texturizing Processes
-False-twist
-Knife-edge
-Stuffer-box
-Air jet
-Gear crimping
-Multicomponent
-Properties and End use
VII. Fabric Structure (Chapter 5)
-Weaving
-Shuttle looms
-Shuttleless looms
-Basic Woven fabrics
-Plain weaves
-Twill weaves
-Satin weaves
-Decorative Weaves
-Pile Fabric
-Selvage Formation
VIII. Fabric Structure (Chapter 6)
-Knitting
-Flat-bed machine
-Circular machine
-Knitted fabrics
- Weft or Filling knit
-Single knits
-Double knits
-Properties of Weft knit
-Warp knit
-Single knits
-Double knits
-Properties of Warp knit
Fabric Structure (Chapter 7)
- Nonwoven Fabrics
- Felt
- Needle Felts
-Bonded Nonwovens
-Laminated Fabrics
-Braided
-Net
-Lace
-Tufting
IX. Application of Dyes (Chapter8)
-Dyes and Pigments: Relationship of perceived color to chemical structure
-Chromophores, Oxichrome
-Fiber dyeing
-Solution dyeing
-Yarn dyeing
-Piece dyeing
-Union dyeing
-Cross dyeing
-Continuous dyeing
-Product dyeing
Application of Dyes (Chapter9)
-Printing
-Resist printing
-Stencil printing
-Screen printing
-Discharge printing
-Roller printing
-Transfer printing
-Digital Printing
Earth Day lecture: Textiles and Environment (sustainability)
X. General Finishes (Chapter10)
-Cleaning procedures
-Singeing
-Desizing
-Scouring
-Bleaching
-Special Finishes
-Mercerizing
-Tendering
-Calendaring or Pressing
-Heat setting
-Brushing
-Sizing and Slashing
-Weighing
Finishes that improve appearance or hand (Chapter10)
-Mechanical Finishes
-Special calendaring
-Glazing
-Embossing
-Schreinering
-Morie
-Raised Surface
-Chemical Finishes
-Acid Finish
-Basic Finish
-Stiffening
-Functional Finishes
-Permanent Press
-Flame Retardant
-Soil-Release Finishes
-Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes
XI. Durability and Serviceability of Textiles
XII Interpreting tests results for: Breaking Strength and Modulus ASTM D 5034
-Elongation and Elastic Recovery ASTM D 5034
-Abrasion Resistance AATCC 93; ASTM D 3884,
D 3886; D 4157; D 4158
-Bursting strength ASTM D 3786 and D 3787
-Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 and D 2261
Interpreting Tests results for: Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics ASTM D 737
-Dimensional Stability AATCC 135; 150 and 158
-Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3511 and D 3512
-Fabric Stiffness and Drape ASTM D 1388
-Electrical Resistivity of Textiles ASTM D 4238
-Soil Release and Re-deposition
-Snag Resistance of Textiles ASTM D 3939
-Water Repellency AATCC 21; 22; 35; 42
-Wrinkle Recovery AATCC 66 and 128
Interpreting Tests results for for Colorfastness to:
-Acids and Alkalis AATCC 6
-Bleaching AATCC 3, 101
-Burnt Fumes AATCC 23
-Crocking AATCC 8 and 165
-Domestic Laundering AATCC 61
-Dry Cleaning AATCC 132
-Heat AATCC 133
-Light AATCC 16 A-G
-Ozone AATCC 109 and 129
-Perspiration AATCC 15
Flammability Terminology ASTM D 4391 and D 4723
-Interpreting Tests results for Flammability of:
-Carpet and Rug DOC FF-170; ASTM D 2859;
-Mattress and Mattress Pads FF-4-72
-Vinyl, Plastics and Furniture
XIII. Writing Specifications for Design, Materials, Construction, Packaging and Shipping
- Sustainability and specification writing
Problem Solving for Textile Products
-What is the problem?
-What does it look like?
-What caused it?
-Can it be prevented?
-Who is responsible?
-Is there a remedy?-
-Calculating Adjustment Values for Consumer Textile Products